The Beauty of Pearl Jewelry
There is something magical about pearls. Perhaps the rarity of pearl jewelry gives it significance: only 1 in every 10,000 oysters will ever produce natural pearls. Maybe the fact that a living creature makes the pearl — all other gemstones begin in the earth — adds to its mystique. Pearls imply class, beauty, and wealth whether someone dons a pearl bracelet, earrings or a necklace.
Celebrity icons like actresses Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, Sarah Jessica Parker, fashion designer Coco Chanel, first ladies Jackie Kennedy and Michelle Obama all understood the allure of pearls, adding pearl necklaces and pearl earrings to their outfits. Even men are boarding the pearl bandwagon, with musicians such as Joe Jonas, Harry Styles, and Usher wearing pearls at concerts, parties, and events. Kennedy emphasized the gem’s fashion importance with the proverbial wisdom that “pearls are always appropriate.” So, put on that pearl jewelry — whether you love a pearl bracelet, a classic pearl necklace, or your grandmother’s pearl earrings — and join the legion of pearl lovers.
How Are Pearls Made?
Pearls start with mollusks like oysters, clams, and mussels. To protect themselves from irritants that infiltrate their environment, the mollusk produces secretions so that their body cannot be hurt by the foreign parasite or stray particles that have entered their shell. A pearl will form over time as the oyster creates nacre — made from the carbon-based mineral aragonite and an organic protein conchiolin — that coats the irritant, eventually forming a gem for your pearl necklace, bracelet, or earrings.
It can take a long time for a pearl to form as thin nacre layers build up. Large pearls can require up to four years to cultivate, which is why they are so rare and valuable. Most pearl jewelry sold today features cultured pearls, which means they were made through human intervention.
What is Pearl Nacre?
When we talk about nacre, it refers to that crystal-like mass that envelops the pearl. The denser this is, the more durable the pearl will be. The thickness often depends on the kind of pearl — for example, South Sea varieties typically measure from 2mm to 4mm, which gives the pearls more luster and strength.
How nacre forms is impacted by conditions such as water temperature. Colder environments like Japan grow slower than warm locations such as Australia. This can decrease the oyster’s metabolism, creating a thinner nacre layer that offers a silvery almost mirror-like shine.
The Major Traits of Pearls
Not all pearls are the same. There are several different varieties that are made into your pearl bracelets and other trinkets. How valuable a pearl is depends on several factors:
- Origin (natural vs. cultured)
- Color and luster
- Nacre thickness
- Shape and size
What Is the Difference Between Natural and Cultured Pearl Jewelry?
Natural pearls are exceedingly rare and valuable, and finding them is difficult. Most natural pearl jewelry is now seen in auctions such as the 2018 Sotheby’s sale of the onetime Queen of France Marie-Antoinette’s diamond and pearl pendant, which sold for a record-breaking $36 million.
Cultured pearls are still created by oysters, but these are placed in a farm environment and managed by humans, who insert the irritants to stimulate nacre production. The oysters live either in freshwater (think rivers, lakes, reservoirs, and ponds) or saltwater environments.
Both types of pearls are considered gems and come in several shapes, sizes, and colors. Cultured pearls are measured in millimeters, while natural ones have a carat weight like a diamond. Both make beautiful jewelry, although freshwater pearls are sometimes more affordable.
What Are the Main Cultured Pearl Types?
Cultured pearls have different attributes, usually based on where they were created. There are four basic kinds of cultured pearls available for making pearl jewelry. All of them are beautiful, but understanding the differences will help you choose what is best for your next pair of pearl earrings.
- Akoya - This saltwater pearl is usually produced in Japan and China and is typically a classic white or cream pearl that is popular in the U.S. Akoyas are known for their round shape and bright luster.
- South Sea - These saltwater pearls appear white, silver, or golden and are often large since the oysters are given a long cultivation period. They usually come from northwest Australia, the Philippines, or Indonesia.
- Tahitian - This type of saltwater pearl embodies the rainbow because they come in so many hues, including black, gray, and brown — and they may also have overtones of pink, purple, blue, or green. Most of these are cultivated in French Polynesia.
- Freshwater - Available in an array of colors, including pink, peach, lavender, and white, this is a popular pearl type that is typically cultured in freshwater ponds and lakes in countries like China.
What Colors Do Pearls Come In?
Pearls come in a variety of colors, although the most well-known hues are white and cream. You’ll also find the gem in gray, silver, pink, green, purple, blue, or even black. Many factors influence a pearl’s color, from the shade of a mollusk’s shell to nacre thickness to the surrounding environment where the pearl was created.
What Does Pearl Luster Mean?
Pearl luster looks at factors, such as: how the light reflects off of a pearl’s surface; the level of sharpness in that reflection; and how the makeup of the nacre layers impact the pearl. Ultimately, you want to see that pearly glow in your pearl jewelry, from pearl necklaces to pearl bracelets to pearl earrings. So luster is important in not only determining the pearl’s beauty but its value.
How Shape and Size Impact a Pearl’s Value
Both shape and size impact the quality and value of a pearl. Some shapes, for example, are much more rare, like round pearls — only about 5 to 10 percent of a yearly harvest’s production. Symmetrical shapes are also valued more than baroque (asymmetrical) ones. Other common shapes include teardrop, oval, and button (a flattened version that resembles … a button, see our button pearl pendant).
Size matters. The larger the pearl, the more valuable it is. Typically, the most popular size depends on the item. Pearl earrings and pearl necklaces favor 7 to 8mm range while 6 to 7mm and 8 to 9mm work nicely for pearl bracelets. The size of the pearl depends on a variety of factors during its creation: how big the oyster was; how the pearl rotated inside the oyster’s shell; and what location the pearl developed in.
When Did Pearl Jewelry Become Popular?
Using pearls in jewelry goes back to ancient times. In fact, some hypothesize that preliterate civilizations found pearls on food-hunting expeditions. Ancient Egyptians recorded their love of the gem more than 5,000 years ago, and paintings show them wearing pearl earrings and pearl necklaces.
Pearl Jewelry in America
When Christopher Columbus journeyed to the New World, he saw natives wearing natural pearls. He brought pearls back with him to show the Spanish monarchs. This created a demand for pearl jewelry in Europe.
Pearls were also an essential part of French jeweler Jacques Cartier’s introduction to the business as he allegedly traded two pearl necklaces to buy the property for his Fifth Avenue store in New York City. Cultured pearls became more important in the 1920s as natural pearls became harder to harvest — and have remained a desired gem ever since.
When to Wear Pearl Jewelry
One of the best things about pearl jewelry is you can wear it almost anytime. Pearl bracelets, pearl earrings, and pearl necklaces work well with casual or formal attire. For example, if you are dressing for a black-tie event, a pair of big pearl earrings, a lovely pearl bracelet, or strands of pearl necklaces can amplify a look.
You can also wear a simple pearl bracelet, dainty stud earrings, or a necklace to work or for a fun night out. This jewelry pairs well with button-up shirts or simple skirt and blouse combos. Pearl jewelry even dresses up a white t-shirt and jeans, making the most laid-back looks feel more sophisticated with hanging pearl earrings and a matching pearl bracelet.
Our Favorite Pearl Pieces
At Wear Ever Jewelry, we love our pearls — from pearl necklaces to pearl earrings to pearl bracelets and beyond. We like how pearls offer a little bit of history. Our Turan Pearl Earrings were inspired by the ancient Etruscan civilization. We also like the classic look of Pearl in Flower Studs and this 16-inch White Pearl Necklace.
But pearls aren’t always prim and proper. We love to play with them — inserting the gems into a rectangular pendant, which stacks a lovely column of pearls between golden wires. Pearls inspire us, which is why our artists create so many wonderful pearl jewelry designs, from pearl bracelets to pearl earrings to pearl necklaces.
5 Things to Understand When Purchasing Pearl Jewelry
Every piece of pearl jewelry offers its own unique beauty. You’ll find that when selecting something to add to your collection, the problem becomes having too many choices to consider. We’ve narrowed down five top considerations when purchasing pearls:
- Type
- Budget
- Quality
- Sustainability
- Artistry
1. Type of Pearl
Besides deciding whether you want a pearl bracelet, earrings, or necklace, you should consider the look of your gem; what size, shape, and color do you like best? Generally, pearls 7mm or less are labeled small. Ones bigger than 10mm are large.
Some types of pearls, like the Akoya, will only hit 9 to 9.5mm. South Sea pearls, in contrast, might start at 8mm and can hit more than double that.
All shapes make lovely jewelry, but you should consider which you prefer. Prices are dictated by the rarity, with round pearls being the most sought-after. Color is also a matter of partiality. For example, white ones exude a certain kind of sophistication and represent wealth while pink feels more romantic.
2. What Is Your Budget?
After you think about what attributes you want in your pearl jewelry, you should set a realistic budget. The price of this gem varies from hundreds of dollars to thousands. For example, Wear Ever Jewelry’s pearl in flower stud earrings cost $100, a pair of crystal pearl earrings sell for $350, and our stunning white/gray pearl necklace with 18k and 22k gold is priced at $2,975.
You can expect to pay more for bigger pearls, especially anything over 7.5mm. With each millimeter increase, the cost can rise anywhere from 30 to 50 percent. The other factors we spoke about above — origin, color, shape, thickness, and luster – can all impact price as well. So, it sometimes helps to create a range, from X to X, for your budget when purchasing your next pearl necklace, bracelet, or earrings.
3. Look for Quality
Just like books, a pearl gets judged by its cover … so to speak. You want to choose ones without any blemishes — that means no spots, bumps, or cracks. Look for a smooth, clean, and reflective surface in your pearl bracelets, necklaces, and earrings.
You also want to find a quality vendor who specializes in jewelry and can answer your questions knowledgeably. The business should offer a fair return or exchange policy.
No international grading scale exists for judging pearls, but many vendors rank them using AAA as the highest to A. Don’t be taken in by a vendor that uses ridiculously inflated terms such as “it’s a verified AAAA+.” That doesn’t exist.
4. Are Sustainable Practices Used?
Harvesting pearls can contribute to global warming as it produces emissions like methane and nitrous oxide. By using antibiotics and other chemicals, the industry can also pollute water, hurting various ecosystems. Pearl farms do help purify water as the oysters filter it through their systems; however, too many oysters in one place can remove an excess of nutrients and degrade the environment instead.
You want to consider purchasing from pearl farms that embrace ethical practices. These include waste reduction, marine conservation, and community development. Some pearl farms make pearl compost, while others create employment opportunities for local workers.
5. Artistry of Jewelry
Many artisans work with pearls, including luxury designers such as Camille Miceli, who makes playful creations for Dior, including her signature Dior Tribales double pearl earrings. An advantage of purchasing through a specific jewelry designer is some will customize jewelry for you, giving you a personalized piece of artwork.
Before buying pearl bracelets, necklaces, or earrings, consider the following:
- Does it have sound craftsmanship?
- Does the piece seem unique or creative?
- Does it use an interesting mix of materials and/or techniques?
- Does it have an aesthetic appeal?
How Do You Care for Pearl Jewelry?
Pearls require some TLC since they are vulnerable to chemicals, heat, and scratches. It is important that you store them correctly, keeping them away from harder gems that could mar them. Try a jewelry box with a soft lining or a pouch — even for those small pearl earrings. Never store pearls in an airtight container, which could dry them out, causing cracking, brittleness, and peeling.
Keep your pearls away from items like hairspray, perfume, cosmetics, acids, bleach, or toothpaste. These gems should always be put on after you’ve finished getting ready — save the pearl bracelet or those pearl necklaces for last! If you need to clean them, use a soft, damp rag or warm, soapy water and a microfiber cloth. A professional cleaning from a jewelry store also increases longevity for pearl earrings, necklaces, and bracelets.
Don’t be afraid to wear your pearls — taking them out of their box is good for them. Your skin’s oils will allow them to retain moisture, which helps the pearls stay full of luster.
Pearls are prized for many reasons, including their beauty, long history, and association with wealth and status. A pearl bracelet, necklace, or earrings make a wonderful addition to any jewelry collection, whether you purchase it for yourself or as a gift for someone you love.